A few weeks ago, I took a semi-spontaneous trip through Germany and Sicily. I say that because while I booked tickets six months ago, I originally planned on going solo to visit a friend I had met while traveling in Mexico. When a best friend hopped along for the ride, things took a turn for the lit. Our first stop: three days in Berlin, of which I’m sharing my travel guide.
Berlin is a city of resilience. From the uneven cityscape to the grey, Nazi-era buildings, the city’s struggles and the desire to overcome them are clear. The streets echo with pointed street art, rapid cyclists on a mission (that never involves you), and cafes filled with sartorial millennials hungry for caffeine, intelligent conversation, and the opportunity to have their way. In Berlin, nobody cares what you do; it’s what you are that entrenches your place in this reticently defiant city.
Whether you like it or not, there is a right way and a wrong way to do Berlin. As ambivalent as Berliners may seem, they have a fierce loyalty to their city. You will never be one of them, so don’t bother trying. But here are some tips to follow to assure you maximize your stay:
DO:
- Get a bike. Daily rentals are cheap and the most efficient way to see the city.
- Carry cash. Bars and clubs tend to scoff at credit cards, and at you in general.
- Wear dark/black clothing. Berlin club bouncers are infamous for not letting people in based on appearance. The more sullen you look, the better.
- Try to get into Berghain. Their parties start on Friday and end Monday morning. Go on Friday and see if you can get stamped, which will guarantee you entry for the rest of the weekend. Otherwise, try again on another night.
- Like techno music. Deep house rules the club scene, so you don’t have a choice.
- Get donner kebab after 3am. Your fatigued, inebriated clubbing self will thank you.
- Drink a lot of coffee. The cafe scene is strong here, so spend a few hours relaxing while you caffeinate. Do NOT, however, bring your laptop.
DON’T:
- Smile too much when trying to get into clubs. Berlin isn’t a place known for smiling, or showing emotion in general.
- Take too many photos of your food. It is still taboo here to do that, although I definitely did not follow this at all.
STAY:
- Kreuzberg: If there ever were a birthplace of hipster culture, it is here. It’s almost too cool for its own good, but it provides a slice of the underground culture that is unique to Berlin. Airbnbs are very inexpensive, so avoid hotels.
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EAT:
Breakfast/Coffee:
Five Elephant {This is the best cheesecake I’ve ever had IN MY LIFE. I came here everyday just to have a slice to myself. It’s unbelievable }
Concierge Coffee { Good for coffee on the go }
Allan’s Breakfast Club {Cute, elevated brunch fare on a quiet side street. The salmon on poppyseed bagel is an easy favorite, along with the daily spritz }
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Lunch/Dinner:
Markthalle Neun { A large food hall with traditional, artisan German food as well as other European cuisines. Try the German cheeses and have an easy lunch }
Tim Raue { In the top 50 best restaurants of the world, this place is a fusion of Asian cuisine that will blow your mind. More in a later post }
Mustafa’s Kebap { The famous donner kebab. Lines can be long, so grab a beer while you wait – open container laws! }
Scheeweiß { Elevated German cuisine in a nice setting that’s not too hard on your wallet. The appetizers are amazing, as is the apple strudel dessert }
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DRINK:
Monkey Bar { Berlin loves the irony in having tiki bars in a landlocked city. On a good day, this has a nice view }
Klunkerkranich { Located on top of a parking garage in a mall, this is one of the best rooftop bars I’ve been to. It’s full of interesting people and even more interesting art sculptures all over the place. Grab a beer and people watch, and then sip on rosé while you watch the sunset }
Café am Neuen See { A beer garden in an actual garden! Hang out before trying your hand at the row boats, which are free to use }
MUST-SEE/DO:
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Walking tour { I did this one, which I found super interesting. Berlin is full of extremely relevant history, and it’s fascinating to learn how pivotal a place it was during World World II }
Museum Island { I didn’t have time to visit any, but it’s a gorgeous spot to relax in the sun and take a nap }
Tempelhofer Feld { This abandoned air field is massive, and perfect for biking around in the afternoon. It gets super dark and creepy at night though, so best to come earlier }
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