San Francisco is no novice to the pop-up scene – we see pop-ups featured on every to-do newsletter, email, and date night suggestion. But there is a method to the pop-up surgence that is rooted less in creating exclusive, in-the-know opportunities and more in background logistics, permits, and labor laws.
Aster, the latest restaurant slated to open next month at 22nd and Guerrero, is the newest venture from the Daniel Patterson Group, who of course oversee Coi. In the midst of preparing for the grand opening, Chef Brett Cooper (of Outerlands fame), popped up at Coi for the last four Mondays, when Coi is usually closed. While he was able to test dishes by way of a four-course prix-fixed menu, I had to the opportunity to eat during one of those nights and preview what Aster will be like.
As is the trend with most fine dining establishments in San Francisco, the cuisine is unabashedly Californian, using the best of what Bay Area produce has to offer while taking into account the diversity of the city to create new and interesting dishes. Japanese flavors are becoming more prominent, and Aster follows suit, opening the meal with a nori gougere, radish with miso, and a pig’s head croquette covered with the perfect dab of yuzu aioli that delivers sharp flavors without being overpowering.
The rest of the menu emulated simple and full flavors – The sunchoke oil on the trout, the thyme buttermilk with the wild mushrooms, and the grapes with the duck and rye spaetzle were all winning touches. As is traditional with multi-course meals, the staff brought out a palate cleanser of eucalyptus and clementine, two ingredients that I never thought would go together but then they do. Clementines risk being bitter if not candied or sweetened well enough, and eucalyptus tends to be a soapier green – but here, they are perfect and do an amazing job of prepping the diner for dessert.
Since it is still winter, desserts were warm and earthy – poached apples with pecans, and a hazelnut and amaro macaron to finish.
Aster’s menu will be a la carte, but offering a prix-fixed version at Coi was a great way to focus on dishes that could very well become the stars of the opening menu. The dining experience was a way to get a taste of what is to come from 22nd and Guerrero, which until now has been a sleepier part of the Mission but soon will be a hotspot once Aster opens.
Cassie @ Almost Getting it Together says
I can’t wait to try Aster! I haven’t been to Coi yet but it’s also on my list!