Sicily is not Italy.
It’s the first thing you learn when visiting this Mediterranean island, and it’ll ring true in whichever corner you venture to. In Sicily, there are far fewer tourists. There are arancini but no bruschetta; linguine con vongole but no lasagna; cannoli but no panna cotta (don’t worry, there is still gelato).
Sicilians are multi-ethnic and proud, touting ancestries from the Turks, Normans, Italians, North Africans, and in the last thirty years, Bangladeshis. They elongate their vowels just a little bit more, are a little feistier, and love their island dearly. You can spend a month here, but I had to make to do with a week. And in that week, I hiked a volcano, ate my weight in cannoli, tried a spleen sandwich, swam in the sea, harvested olives, and saw some pretty cool shit. I’m sharing a travel guide on my favorite things in Sicily, along with some tips on how to make the most of the Southern state. Check it out!
Do:
- Rent a car. Sicily is an island, and that means things run on island time. Trains aren’t reliant, so getting a car is the best option and gives you more flexibility.
- Add 30 minutes to anywhere you go. Roads are old and most street signs are out of date. Stick to Google Maps and prepare for windy paths in between towns. Call it the scenic route.
Eat:
- Anything with eggplant and seafood. Caponata, pasta alla norma, linguine with vongole (clams), and swordfish are local specialties and nearly always well-made.
- Brioche con gelato. It’s a massive thing to eat as a snack/dessert, but it’s everywhere and worth trying once.
- Arancine. This is a Sicilian dish and made as street food with various meat and vegetable fillings. I liked the ones filled with saffron and cheese.
- Cannoli. Another ubiquitous street food. Not all cannoli is created equal, so ask around to find the good spots.
Catania
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Pescheria al Vecchio Molo { The city’s fish market, open daily from early hours. Walk around and see what the daily catch is, and watch out for slick-lipped Sicilians flirting with you for a purchase }
Osteria Antica Marina { Michelin recommended restaurant inside the fish market. Reservations are recommended, so see if you can come for lunch }
Pasticceria Savia { Famous café, known for various desserts. Get a coffee and try a few }
First { Bar tucked away in a back alley. On a nice night, sit outside with drinks and bar hop }
Castello Normanno { Black Norman castle about 20 minutes north of Catania and well worth it. Climb to the top to cop that wind-swept selfie overlooking the sea }
Mount Etna { Despite being to Iceland, I still found Mount Etna fascinating. It’s a monster of a volcano that you can hike up or take a tram, which is recommended as walking up would take several hours. Bring warm layers. It’s the only part of Sicily that actually gets cold }
Taormina
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{ I personally didn’t care much for this town, as it is very resorty and touristy. If you have limited time, I’d skip it and try more authentic spots }
Tischi Toschi { We had dinner at this alley-way spot and loved it. The owner is very nice and will chat with you all night }
Siracusa
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{ I loved this town. It was hands down the most beautiful seaside city I’ve seen. Old town is built right on the water, making for gorgeous sunset walks. On the mainland is the famous Ear of Dionysus limestone cave. Come for a day trip, and rent a kayak to explore, before having dinner overlooking the sea }
Caltagirone
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{ This small town is good for the cascading mosaic steps in the city center. Come for the climb and shop for mosaics in the tiny shops }
Azienda Agricola Mandranova
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{ This was a hidden gem in our trip. Sylvia and her family harvests their own olives for oil that they ship all over the world. She hosts cooking classes as well. We learned how olive oil is made and then spent a few hours cooking pasta with pistachio pesto, traditional almond cake—I made my own version a few weeks back—caponata, arancini, and more. It was a lovely glimpse into traditional Sicilian food }
Agrigento
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Valley of the Temples { This is the main reason for coming here, but it’s a big one. The massive structures stretch for kilometers and take a couple hours to explore in full }
Scala del Turchi { My favorite spot of the trip. These limestone cliffs overlook the sea and are perfect for swimming around or enjoying the view. Bring your swimsuit, or if you prefer to relax, a picnic }
Leon D’Oro { A quiet restaurant where people don’t speak English, but it serves delicious swordfish and pasta }
Le Cuspidi { Famous gelato place and with good reason. I came here everyday }
Le Dune Mare { This is about 15 minutes outside the city but a lovely place to sit on the beach or swim. I came here every morning to swim before breakfast }
Monastero de Santo Spirito { The nuns here make their own almond cookies, allowing the entire monastery to smell delicious. You can purchase them through a sneaky side door outside the monastery }
Ristorante Kokalos { Great pizza }
Palermo
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Catacombe dei Cappuccini { Men, women, monks, and children are carefully embalmed and preserved here, in an eery yet fascinating way }
Pasticceria Cappello { Cute pastry shop known for its chocolate cake }
La Champagneria { Okay, I came here for the name alone, but it wasn’t half bad. Sit outside in the evening and get a drink }
Mercato del Capo { One of three main markets in Palermo, full of street food and produce. Get arancini from any of the stalls }
Duomo Monreale {The all gold errythang church. It’s a few minutes outside the main city and absolutely gorgeous. Climb to the top tower as well }
Antica Focacceria San Francesco { One of my favorite meals, and of course the last meal I ate here. With outdoor seating, the squid ink pasta was amazing, and wine bottles are inexpensive and delicious. Come for a leisurely dinner }
candyrb69 says
Stared different project:
http://philip.post1.telrock.org