Being a woman in a professional kitchen is not easy. Cooking has always been a man’s world, and even today, men helm most kitchens. Whether by stigma, prejudice, or schemas of gender roles, women cooks are far and few between, and women chefs are even more rare. In fact, Time Magazine’s November piece on “The Gods of Food” showcased no women whatsoever, which the editor attempted to defend by stating, “’I don’t make the sad news; I just reflect it, like a mirror.’”
As a woman cook, I look to other women in the industry for motivation and inspiration. And while times are changing, they are doing so slowly and painstakingly, a fact that chef Gabrielle Hamilton of Prune restaurant points out in her memoir, which I highly recommend.
In my visit to NYC, I knew I had to eat at chef Hamilton’s restaurant, and so on my last day, I went for brunch. Immediately, I was struck by the brilliance and integrity of the place. Having read her novel, I understood firsthand how much of her soul went into building this restaurant from scratch. Although small, the place is mighty, with an eye-catchingly pink awning and a hearty, homey menu meant to delight and satisfy. There are no substitutions allowed, which doesn’t surprise me, as that is becoming a trend, yet there is no need for any swaps once the food comes out.
I like eating out for brunch because it is a meal where anything goes. Early morning alcoholic drinks are acceptable, especially when there is a choice of 10 Bloody Marys that alone could be a meal (I went for the Mariner, with clam juice and vodka).
To start, we tried the Lower East Side Appetizer, with four different kinds of fish, rye bread, crackers, and an insane, INSANE horseradish butter that I only wish I had more of. That was followed by a fried oyster omelet with Worcestershire sauce – I have never had an oyster inside an omelet before, and it is an unlikely and delicious combination. The oyster was a perfect balance of crisp and chewy and went well with the perfectly cooked omelet that looked almost too beautiful to eat. My gal pal ordered the hearty Sausage & Oysters – we really love oysters – and had a clean plate.
When I eat at restaurants like Prune, my respect for women chefs quickly increases. It takes guts to work in a high-pressure industry and serve bold food with flavors that draw the likes of locals, tourists (although I pretend not to be), and celebrities (Sarah Silverman came that day to brunch as well). Prune serves as a reminder to all women to keep doing what needs doing. It will be ungainly and difficult, but in time, we will have our chances to do what we love and turn work into pleasure and fantastic restaurants like Prune.
The power of women.
Prune Restaurant
54 #. 1st Street
New York, NY 10003
Open for brunch and dinner
Dixya @ Food, Pleasure, and Health says
i need to read her book..i can already tell its a great place with her heart and soul.
Shikha says
Definitely read it and tell me what you think! Also, we totally missed each other in SF 🙁 How was your trip?!?!
Dixya @ Food, Pleasure, and Health says
i downloaded that book already..need to get on it soon. Trip was awesome, will do a post sometime next week 🙂
Jocelyn (Grandbaby Cakes) says
Wow I seriously want to try Prune now!
Shikha says
It was outta control – I barely ate for the rest of the day!
Erika says
Amazing write up!! I’ve been wanting to try Prune ever since I read Hamilton’s memoir (fittingly enough, the last time I was in NYC). The fish plate looks so, so amazing. LOVE THIS.
Shikha says
I’m so glad I eat fish so I could enjoy every bite of that platter cus it was amazing. I barely ate for the rest of the day and it was worth it!!
Mona says
That is going to change. And the paradox is that all or most home kitchens have women at the helm. In SF chronicle rising chefs for this year, hold on to your hangers!!!!!There is one woman chef
Shikha says
Was there really? I have to reread that to see who the chef was – girl power!
Joanne says
I am definitely into supporting female chefs also, since we’re so underrepresented in the profession! I’ve never been to Prune…but must change that immediately!
Shikha says
Oh man, definitely go if you’re in NYC – so worth it.
Jules Gregg says
Love it!! I have recently read Blood, Bones, and Butter and absolutely loved it!! Thanks for supporting us women in the biz!
Shikha says
Isn’t it a great book? I want to reread it now after eating here!